For clients who have never had a facial treatment before, a relaxing hour with a therapist can quickly become their worst nightmare when they experience ‘skin purging’.
While it doesn’t happen to every client, or after every treatment, skin purging is a very real concern for some, especially those clients who use minimal active ingredients in their day-to-day routine, and who don’t have regular facials.
So, what exactly is skin purging, and what causes it? “It is a temporary reaction of the epidermis that can occur when a new topical skincare product is used, or treatment regime begins,” explains Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, chemical engineer, skincare formulator and founder of Skin Masterclass, which is a UK-based online skincare consultant certification platform.
“It is characterised by an increase in skin blemishes, such as acne, milia or blackheads, and typically happens after starting a new skin routine,” says Clodagh Duffy, co-owner of Aspiring Wellness Ireland, which distributes Bioline Jatò, and owner of Exhale Essential Therapies in Dundalk, Co Louth.
It can be hard to pinpoint exactly what leads the skin to purge, as different clients could have different triggers. It is often caused by active ingredients that have the potential to increase cell turnover rate, such as retinoids, AHAs, BHAs or vitamin C, according to Louise O’Loughlin, owner of Iguazu Beauty in Rush, Co Dublin, which distributes Repêchage. “Products and treatments that increase cell turnover can lead to the shedding of dead skin cells, and this may cause existing congestion to surface as breakouts, with pustules, blackheads and papules appearing,” she says.
“Skin purging is like cleaning the house; sometimes you have to create a mess for a fabulous result,” says Duffy. “When the underlying cells get a boost of energy, they multiply faster, pushing the weaker cells out of the skin, along with any other debris or excess oil.”
More intensive beauty treatments can also lead to skin purging. These include microneedling, laser therapies and chemical peels that contain a certain level of active ingredients.
“These treatments can combat many imperfections and concerns, such as fine lines, wrinkles, scarring, pigmentation and existing breakouts, and by that very nature, there is a risk that sometimes these treatments may result in purging,” says Pandora Long, owner of Pandora Long Aesthetic Facialist in London in the UK.
Purge versus breakout
Of course, it is important to distinguish between a purge and a breakout. “Timing is key when establishing the difference between skin purging and acne,” explains Kemal Yilmaz. “Skin purging is very much a temporary phenomenon and will take four to six weeks to clear, while a condition such as acne will persist.”
“The timeline is usually the giveaway,” agrees O’Loughlin. “If it only happens after a facial and clears up quickly, then it is a purge. Acne will persist without the right treatment, and can also appear on the chest neck and back. Reactions to products and ingredients usually happen quickly, and can appear as multiple small bumps or pimples anywhere the product has been used. Discontinuation of the product will clear it up. But it is important that your client does not start using multiple new products that you are unaware of, as it will be unclear what is causing the reaction.”
Skin purging is very much a temporary phenomenon and will take four to six weeks to clear, while a condition such as acne will persist
Can skin purging be avoided?
Unfortunately, skin purging is sometimes unavoidable during intensive treatments. If there are blockages already within the skin, the treatment will just accelerate their appearance. “If blockages are lying dormant under the skin and you start to use certain actives, then it is likely these will come to the surface at some point,” explains Long. “But a lot of the time, purging can be avoided by ensuring that the skin’s barrier remains uncompromised by introducing one active ingredient at a time.”
“As skincare professionals, we cannot fully prevent purging, but we can try to control it by learning as much as we can about the client’s lifestyle and diet,” advises Duffy. “Then, introduce the right actives slowly, and monitor the progress. Communication is really important.”
It should be noted that post-facial purging does not always happen. “It is no longer common after regular facials,” says Duffy. “Skincare has become much more sophisticated and targeted, compared to 20 years ago.”
“It is actually unusual to experience a purge or breakout after a regular facial,” agrees O’Loughlin. “A good skin therapist can generally predict if their client will experience any purging. For instance, it might happen if they are trying to treat some underlying congestion, or if they are introducing strong ingredients that may cause flaking or peeling. Deep cleansing can also trigger the skin’s natural response to produce more oil, initially as a form of protection. This can cause minor breakouts, but they usually clear up quickly. Unsanitary conditions can also be the cause of post-facial breakouts, so if your clients are having these after a standard facial and their skin is healthy, you may need to look at your treatment area, tools and equipment.”
Professional advice
While skin purging may be unavoidable, there are some tips and tricks you can give clients to help minimise the effects.
“Similarly to how you would advise your client to treat other breakouts, it is important they resist the urge to treat the area with even more actives, which can strip the skin’s barrier and make it worse,” explains Long.
A good skincare routine is key. “A robust cleansing regimen using a mild, hydrating cleanser is beneficial,” notes Kemal Yilmaz. “Water should be lukewarm so as to not dehydrate the skin further. Sun exposure can worsen skin purging, so wearing a broad-spectrum sun protection product with a minimum of SPF 30 is crucial.”
“When a skin purge does happen, it’s important that the client keeps their skin hydrated, uses products as directed, and doesn’t pick at or repeatedly touch the skin on their face,” says Duffy. “They should also avoid trying to cover up the breakout with make-up.”
“Post-facial care is extremely important, so always recommend the correct aftercare products,” says O’Loughlin. “For a purge, a mild astringent with less than 2% salicylic acid can help. A non comedogenic SPF is also important. Often clients will use good-quality serums and creams, and then use a basic SPF that can reverse what they are trying to achieve.”
Skin purging after a facial is completely normal and often a sign that the skin is clearing out impurities, notes O’Loughlin. “While these breakouts can be frustrating, they are usually temporary and improve with proper aftercare. Remember to discuss your clients’ main concerns with them, and always explain the treatment may incur a purge. Their expectations need to be aired so that disappointment can be avoided, and realistic goals can be met.”
This article was published in the January/February 2026 issue of PB/HJ Ireland.
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